SPAB-Approved Guidance Explained Simply

Damp is one of the most common concerns for anyone buying or living in an older property.
And it’s no surprise, when you see dark patches, flaking paint, or musty smells, it’s natural to think something serious is going on. Similarly damp has been in the news alot recently, including the new rules and regulations surrounding Awaabs Law, housing associations, landlords and renters have had to make sweeping changes to how they manage their buildings.

But here’s the good news: most damp in old houses is entirely manageable, and often caused by modern interventions, not the building itself.

This guide explains damp the SPAB way — simply, practically, and with respect for how traditional buildings were designed to work.

Why Old Houses Get Damp (and Why It’s Not Always a “Problem”)

Older buildings — especially those built before 1919 — were constructed using breathable materials such as lime plaster, lime mortar, timber and soft stone. These materials let moisture move freely, allowing walls to absorb, evaporate and regulate water naturally.

SPAB’s core message is simple:

“Old buildings are designed to breathe — let them.”

Damp becomes an issue when something interrupts that natural process.

Common causes include:

• Hard cement pointing or render
• Modern gypsum plaster on old walls
• Non-breathable masonry paint or waterproof coatings
• Blocked ventilation
• High ground levels and bridging
• Leaking gutters and downpipes
• Insufficient heat or airflow

Understanding how moisture moves is the first step to dealing with it.

The Three Main Types of Damp (Explained Simply)

1. Penetrating Damp

Water entering the building from outside.

Usually caused by:

• Leaking gutters or downpipes
• Missing tiles
• Defective flashings
• Cracked render or cement pointing
• Vegetation pushing into masonry

SPAB approach:
Fix the source of water first. Breathable repairs (like lime mortar) allow the wall to dry naturally.

2. Rising Damp

Moisture moving up from the ground.

In reality, true rising damp is rare and often over-diagnosed — especially by companies with something to sell.

What’s more common?

• High external ground levels
• Concrete paths bridging moisture
• Non-breathable internal finishes
• Trapped moisture behind cement

SPAB approach:
Lower ground levels where possible, improve drainage, remove non-breathable finishes, and allow walls to dry naturally.

3. Condensation

Warm, moist air meeting cold surfaces.

Extremely common in:

• Kitchens
• Bathrooms
• Unheated rooms
• Properties shut up for long periods

SPAB approach:
Gentle ventilation, steady background heat, and breathable finishes.

The SPAB Principle That Solves Most Damp Issues

“Repair the cause, not the symptoms.”

This means:

• No chemical injections
• No waterproof tanking
• No damp-proof paints or sealants
• No cement slapped over soft brick or stone

These treatments trap moisture, making the problem worse and damaging historic fabric.

Instead, the aim is to:

• Remove modern barriers
• Fix defects that are letting water in
• Use traditional materials that breathe
• Allow time for the building to gently dry

How to Diagnose Damp the Correct Way

A heritage-focused survey is crucial — older houses need an approach based on understanding materials, not moisture meter numbers alone.

A proper inspection should include:

• High-level checks (often with a drone)
• Gutters, downpipes and roof edges
• External ground levels and drainage
• Condition of brick, stone and mortar
• Ventilation and airflow inside the property
• Heating patterns and cold spots
• Internal finishes (lime vs gypsum)
• Areas where modern materials may be trapping moisture

At Smith Heritage Surveyors, we often spend as much time explaining the why as the what — because once homeowners understand how their home works, damp stops being scary.

Simple SPAB-Friendly Fixes for Damp

(Depending on the cause)

1. Improve drainage and rainwater goods

• Clear gutters
• Repair downpipes
• Add or improve soakaways
• Check falls and overflows

2. Use breathable materials

• Lime mortar instead of cement
• Lime plaster instead of gypsum
• Limewash or mineral paints instead of acrylic

3. Ventilate gently

• Open trickle vents
• Ventilate kitchens and bathrooms
• Keep air circulating
• Avoid blocking fireplaces

4. Adjust ground levels

• Remove soil or paths that bridge damp
• Add French drains where appropriate

5. Reduce condensation

• Consistent low-level heating
• Dehumidifiers (as a tool, not a solution)
• Avoid drying clothes on radiators

How Long Will an Old House Take to Dry Out?

Once the cause of damp is removed, an old house can take months to dry, sometimes longer.

This is normal.

Older walls act like thick sponges — the drying process is slow, gentle and safe when done the SPAB way.

When to Get Help

If you’re buying or already own a period or listed property, a heritage-specialist damp and timber survey is the safest option.

What you should expect from a good surveyor:

• No sales agenda
• No push for chemical treatments
• Knowledge of traditional materials
• Practical, realistic advice
• Clear explanations rooted in conservation best practice

This is exactly how we approach every survey at Smith Heritage Surveyors.

Final Thoughts: Damp Isn’t a Disaster

Damp in an old house doesn’t mean something is “wrong”, it often means the building needs a return to the breathable, gentle methods it was designed for.

By following SPAB-approved guidance, understanding how moisture behaves, and avoiding invasive treatments, you can keep an older property dry, healthy and happy for generations.

For further information, contact us now.